Author: Alyx Gorman
Friday, 29 February 2008
Paris Fashion week: Blisters are being popped, corsets unlaced and trend reports finalised as on Sunday 2 March, the major international fashion week showings drew to a close in Paris. The Parisian shows yielded highs and lows; Nicolas Ghesquière continues to shine at Balenciaga, garnering much critical acclaim; Alessandra Facchinetti stepped into Valentino’s giant size boots with her first collection for the house; while the Issey Miyake show brought new meaning to the concept of ‘one season’ clothing (and drew attention to environmental issues) by presenting a collection of disposable clothes made from paper.
Recession, it seems, will be the major trend for next winter - with even the most flashy designers eschewing colour, drama and thigh- baring hemlines in favour of more austere looks. Some designers, notably Vivienne Westwood in London and Paris, Zac Posen in New York and some of London’s bright young things (who were punished by a poor turnout of US buyers) shirked the trend, but for most, the outlook was luxurious but bleak. How this will trickle down and translate to the street - in Australia at least - is not clear yet. Given our love of surf, sun, sand and obscenely short skirts, there’s a good chance it won’t at all.
Speaking of Zac Posen, he’s the next Designer for Target. You can preview his collection (which will be out early in April) online at designersfortarget.com.au. Secretly, we’re hoping his clothes will cause chaos on a Stella McCartney level. There’s nothing more entertaining than footage of women slapping each other over trench coats in modestly-priced chain stores.
British tabloids are currently ablaze with a rumour that Amy Winehouse – whose achievements in the field of music are outstripped only by her achievements in the field of getting caught smoking crack – is in negotiations to start her own fashion and beauty lines. While the news may be surprising to lay-people, the fashion industry has no more to say than “about bloody time”. The singer’s unique bee-hived, cat-eyed and gap-mouthed look has been a global fashion inspiration for quite some time. Not too long ago in London, Karl Lagerfeld himself showed an Amy Winehouse-styled collection, and her look (or at least a toned down version of it) is much plagiarised on hipper city streets.
10 Reasons why Diana Vreeland (featured left) was cooler than your grandmother:
10 – She worked at Harper’s Bazaar for 26 years and single handily re-invented the position of Fashion Editor, before moving on to become the Editor-In-Chief of US Vogue. Long before Anna Wintour, Vreeland was the original Editrix.
9 - She had some of the coolest friends in the world; Coco Chanel, Cole Porter, Cecil Beaton, Evelyn Waugh and Truman Capote were all part of her circle.
8 - She is responsible for quotes like “elegance is refusal” (a maxim her own style totally contradicted) and “it is better to be sordid than boring” (a saying backed up entirely by her lifestyle).
7 - In the 1960’s (when these things weren’t done), she published a photograph of a naked woman lying on her belly in the sand, covering her wobbly bits was a large hat, and written underneath it: “Spend summer under a big, black sailor.”
6 - After the death of her husband, she was seen with long strings of toyboys, including a young Jack Nicholson.
5 - She swam effortlessly between parties at Andy Warhol’s factory and Studio 54 and those thrown by prominent socialites like Brooke Astor and the De La Renta’s.
4 - In her final years, she would still throw dinner parties, but, not wanting her guests to see her in a frail condition, she would instead have them use a phone in the living room to call her while she lay in her bedroom, so the evening’s conversations took place entirely over the telephone.
3 - She didn’t start her career until her mid thirties, a fact that should consol many on the brink of a quarter-life crisis.
2 - She was a huge fag hag way before Sex and The City made it socially acceptable.
1 - Her last words were “Don’t stop the music or I’ll call my father.”